Today my surf group had a lovely sleep in since our session didn’t go out until 10am. What a treat! I was able to eat breakfast, do some stretching, work on the balance board for a bit, and apply my sunscreen in a very relaxed pace. It was wonderful! After six...
Today we had another boat trip planned for a secret surf spot about an hour or so away. A lot of the campers were excited about this surf spot because the waves broke left. Surfing Lingo Lessons with Meagan: The direction that a wave breaks can matter quite a bit...
On my second day out surfing, I got sunburned on the back of my legs and arms. On my third day out surfing, I tried my best to lather up on the sunscreen again but was ruthlessly beaten by the sun. So today? I am NOT getting sunburned for a third day in a row. My body...
Ok, so I realize that not everyone reading these posts will understand the very obscure surf terminology that I use. I thought it might be beneficial to break it down so you can follow along for the next two weeks! Wave: just kidding, you know what that is 😉 Break:...
Today I remembered it all again. Surfing is hard. This morning started with waking up at 6:45am for a surf session. Compared to my surf camp in Costa Rica, we took boats out instead of swimming from shore to get to the break. It felt a lot like valet service, and it’s...
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