Ok, so I realize that not everyone reading these posts will understand the very obscure surf terminology that I use. I thought it might be beneficial to break it down so you can follow along for the next two weeks! Wave: just kidding, you know what that is 😉 Break:...
Today I remembered it all again. Surfing is hard. This morning started with waking up at 6:45am for a surf session. Compared to my surf camp in Costa Rica, we took boats out instead of swimming from shore to get to the break. It felt a lot like valet service, and it’s...
The last time I was on a surf board, I was back in Costa Rica five months ago. Which just blows my mind because the beginning of this trip feels like a lifetime ago. A dream of a dream. I awoke promptly at 5:20am to the sound of rosters crowing. Ok, look – I’m a...
The night before in the hotel, I arranged a driver to take me to Gerupuk village for this afternoon. I was so incredibly relieved to know that my driver knew where Gerupuk even was. It’s small village that doesn’t even pop up on Google Maps. I’m heading out to this...
This question literally just went through my brain: “Should I pull out 3 million or 4 million from the ATM?” I wish we were talking about USD. If we were though, what the heck would I be spending it all on? Which brings up an interesting question – if you had a...
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