I woke up at 7am to the sound of aggressive lightning and thunder. A nasty storm had rolled in making the waves choppy and unpredictable. Us campers gathered in the overhead patio restaurant to wait out the storm. When we realized that it wasn’t going to clear out anytime soon, we all sat down for some eggs and pancakes. Not going to lie, there are worse ways to kill time.
When the rain stopped and we finally got out there, the breaks came hard. The waves came crashing down over and over and over. I would turtle roll under the wave, but the board would get yanked out of my hands and tug me back to shore.
BUT. When I finally passed the breaks, the surfing was so good. I would drop in on several feet waves and make turns away from the white wash. I felt really good about my surfing today. Lots of progress!!
Bruise count: 7,483,979,831,289,321
They play live music on the beach at the restaurant next door. Because you know – Costa Rica.