After two weeks of surfing and three surf photo days, I was given a flash drive with all of my surf photos on it! I’m super pumped to be able to share with you my progress in surfing!! You can finally see what I’ve been bruising myself over (that’s...
Today I just didn’t want to surf. I was tired, mentally drained, and to be honest, a little moody. I just didn’t feel like spending hours in the sun and getting pummeled by waves. And I think that’s pretty reasonable. But I also knew that I had the strength to push...
After surfing in Costa Rica for a week with Witch’s Rock Surf Camp, I was just barely able to catch my own waves. But having taken a 5-month break to travel through Europe, I was really nervous about surfing again in Indonesia. I didn’t feel mentally or physically...
Just another day where we casually wake up, pack up the boat, and cruise for about an hour to a secret surf location. I mean, it’s a hard life but someone has to do it, you know? Long boat rides give plenty of opportunities such as sleeping, tanning, eating … etc. I...
I’ve now been staying in Gerupuk village for eight days, and surfing for seven. Not to say that I’ve disliked my time so far – I’ve actually had a really great time. However, a bit of R&R in some good ol’ A/C was just what I needed. Today was our Break Day,...
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