Another Day of Surf and Sun

I mean, honestly – my life is so hard.

I wake up, see if there’s surf, and then go out surfing. Then maybe eat, take a nap, eat again, surf again… etc.

Today was no different.

I woke up and headed out to D’bah with some of the guys and Hannah (yay, another girl surfer!!) to catch some mediocre waves. But hey, a wave is a wave at this point.

Last time I went out to D’bah, someone drove. This time – we walked. A long ways. But maybe it just felt far away because I was carrying a 7’6″ mini Malibu surfboard. The guys graciously offered to switch boards with their smaller shortboards, but I was too stubborn. I could carry it myself.

I tried to be a bit more aggressive in gaining priority of the waves today, and I was able to catch a few more. I overall felt pretty good about the day. Unfortunately, I was exhausted, and I was dreading that walk back to the hostel. I humbly asked to switch boards with one of the guys. A shortboard is way lighter.

Here’s a visual difference:

After the long walk back to the hostel, I dropped into a 2-hour nap.

I woke up and went to the ocean for an afternoon swim. I absolutely love Kirra beach so much. It’s by far my favorite beach I’ve been to on my entire trip. And that’s saying a lot.

All these summer vibes have got me thinking about my favorite summer tunes. It’s not summer unless there’s Wheezer.

Hi, I’m so glad you’re on my site! My name is Meagan, and I write about my traveling adventures and finding beauty in each day. For more info about me, click here!

Meagan Tilley

I believe that every day is a day that matters – even just enjoying the little things. Whether that’s traveling to the top cities across the world or binge watching Gilmore Girls. To read more, click the About Me page!

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