I mean, honestly – my life is so hard.
I wake up, see if there’s surf, and then go out surfing. Then maybe eat, take a nap, eat again, surf again… etc.
Today was no different.
I woke up and headed out to D’bah with some of the guys and Hannah (yay, another girl surfer!!) to catch some mediocre waves. But hey, a wave is a wave at this point.
Last time I went out to D’bah, someone drove. This time – we walked. A long ways. But maybe it just felt far away because I was carrying a 7’6″ mini Malibu surfboard. The guys graciously offered to switch boards with their smaller shortboards, but I was too stubborn. I could carry it myself.
I tried to be a bit more aggressive in gaining priority of the waves today, and I was able to catch a few more. I overall felt pretty good about the day. Unfortunately, I was exhausted, and I was dreading that walk back to the hostel. I humbly asked to switch boards with one of the guys. A shortboard is way lighter.
Here’s a visual difference:
After the long walk back to the hostel, I dropped into a 2-hour nap.
I woke up and went to the ocean for an afternoon swim. I absolutely love Kirra beach so much. It’s by far my favorite beach I’ve been to on my entire trip. And that’s saying a lot.
All these summer vibes have got me thinking about my favorite summer tunes. It’s not summer unless there’s Wheezer.