Today I remembered it all again. Surfing is hard. This morning started with waking up at 6:45am for a surf session. Compared to my surf camp in Costa Rica, we took boats out instead of swimming from shore to get to the break. It felt a lot like valet service, and it’s...
The last time I was on a surf board, I was back in Costa Rica five months ago. Which just blows my mind because the beginning of this trip feels like a lifetime ago. A dream of a dream. I awoke promptly at 5:20am to the sound of rosters crowing. Ok, look – I’m a...
I’ve determined that beach life is the life for me. Waking up early and having the ocean to yourself, hearing just the rhythmic waves crashing against the beach, wearing yourself out with some good surf runs, and scarfing down a huge breakfast….....
You have to understand something about me: I do not know how to surf. At all. So obviously I was a little nervous that I was going to fail miserably. My foam board was large, and being 5’6″ and 110 lbs, there wasn’t a whole lot of power behind my...
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