On my second day out surfing, I got sunburned on the back of my legs and arms. On my third day out surfing, I tried my best to lather up on the sunscreen again but was ruthlessly beaten by the sun. So today? I am NOT getting sunburned for a third day in a row. My body...
Ok, so I realize that not everyone reading these posts will understand the very obscure surf terminology that I use. I thought it might be beneficial to break it down so you can follow along for the next two weeks! Wave: just kidding, you know what that is 😉 Break:...
Today I remembered it all again. Surfing is hard. This morning started with waking up at 6:45am for a surf session. Compared to my surf camp in Costa Rica, we took boats out instead of swimming from shore to get to the break. It felt a lot like valet service, and it’s...
The last time I was on a surf board, I was back in Costa Rica five months ago. Which just blows my mind because the beginning of this trip feels like a lifetime ago. A dream of a dream. I awoke promptly at 5:20am to the sound of rosters crowing. Ok, look – I’m a...
The night before in the hotel, I arranged a driver to take me to Gerupuk village for this afternoon. I was so incredibly relieved to know that my driver knew where Gerupuk even was. It’s small village that doesn’t even pop up on Google Maps. I’m heading out to this...
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