Today was my 5th day of surfing, and my progress is completely evident. Though I still have a few lingering bruises, they’re mostly gone. My muscles feel stronger and aren’t sore from paddling against brutal wave breaks. My drop-ins are solid, and...
I woke up at 7am to the sound of aggressive lightning and thunder. A nasty storm had rolled in making the waves choppy and unpredictable. Us campers gathered in the overhead patio restaurant to wait out the storm. When we realized that it wasn’t going to clear...
I’ve determined that beach life is the life for me. Waking up early and having the ocean to yourself, hearing just the rhythmic waves crashing against the beach, wearing yourself out with some good surf runs, and scarfing down a huge breakfast….....
I’m sensing a pattern to surfing: exciting … but exhausting. If you know me pretty well, then you’d know I bruise easily. So throw clumsy surfing to the list of activities? I basically look like a bruised peach. Super cute. When you paddle to catch a...
You have to understand something about me: I do not know how to surf. At all. So obviously I was a little nervous that I was going to fail miserably. My foam board was large, and being 5’6″ and 110 lbs, there wasn’t a whole lot of power behind my...
Recent Comments